What do the following events have in common? Henry Ford invented the first viable motor car. The Yukon Territory drew 100,000 prospective miners in the Klondike Goldrush. John Muir persuaded Congress to designate Yosemite a national park. The United States annexed Hawaii. The suffragette movement began. So, what do these events have in common?  All occurred in the 1890s. It’s fair to say that the Gay Nineties introduced a time of massive upheaval. Despite all the changes, one thing remained the same.

People still loved cookies. I’m fairly certain we still do. 

This is the second installment in the Tasting History blog series. In which we discover the most popular cookies of each decade, beginning in the 1880s. Every post contains a recipe to try—all in the name of historical research, of course.

Did you miss the first post? Either jump in where we are or start at the beginning.

The Most Popular Cookie of the 1890s

Researching historical food is a hobby of mine, but it’s also a necessity for an author who writes western historical romance novels. At some point in a Montana Gold book, my characters will inevitably sit down to dine. I need to know what is on those plates.

Since you’re still reading, I suspect you are equally curious about historical foods.

Care to guess the most popular cookie of the Gay Nineties? -@JanalynVoigt Share on X

This is where I throw out hints, so here goes.

The most popular cookie of the 1880s originated in the Middle East a very long time ago. A lot of variations have existed over time, including ones with dried fruit, nuts, coconut, vanilla, anise, caraway seed, rosewater, lemon peel, and even wine). In the 1890s, a simple version topped with cinnamon sugar appealed most of all.

Our mystery cookie was traditionally rolled and shaped into rings, rolls, loops, or knots. Today the dough is either rolled and cut into rounds or dropped from a spoon. This cookie goes by many different names and spellings. I counted eight: jumbles, jambles, jumbals, jumbolls, jumbolds, jumballs, jemelloes, and gemmels. There may be more. However you say or spell it, I had never heard of them before. Have you? Let me know in a comment.

Some sources call jumbles a cake-like cookie or cookie-like pastry. Once you taste them, you will understand why. The texture is dense but not excessively heavy. Roll them thin if you like crisp-edged cookies. Yum!

Jumbles are said to store without going stale for a year. I’ve said it once (in last month’s post), and I’ll say it again. Keeping cookies that long just wouldn’t happen in my house. Honestly, we’d be lucky to go a week. What about your family?

So there you have it. The most popular cookie of the 1880s, according to Betty Crocker (and who would argue with Betty?) is the cinnamon jumble. They are delicious, as I certainly can attest.

Not a sugar cookie, shortbread, or snickerdoodle—these delectable sweet treats are a delicacy all their own. -@JanalynVoigt Share on X

Cinnamon Jumbles

Most Popular Cookie of the Gay Nineties

Ingredients

1/2 cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
3/4 cup buttermilk (Note: you can substitute ¾ cup milk soured by a little lemon juice or vinegar and left to stand for 5 minutes.)
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking soda

Topping Ingredients

¼ cup sugar
1 tsp cinnamon

Heat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar together. Stir in a slightly beaten egg, buttermilk, and vanilla extract. In a medium bowl, blend the flour, baking soda, and salt.

Mix the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients.

For drop cookies:

Deposit rounded teaspoons of dough about 2” apart on a lightly greased baking sheet. 

To roll out and shape or cut your cookies:

Knead in enough flour so the dough is soft but doesn’t stick to a rolling pin. Note: I used a cookie cutter and rolled the dough about ¼” to ½” thick for crispy cookies.

Mix the topping ingredients and sprinkle onto the cookies before they go in the oven. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cookies are set but not brown.

Makes 4 dozen 2” cookies.

Janalyn Voigt fell in love with literature at an early age when her father read chapters from classics as bedtime stories. When Janalyn grew older, she put herself to sleep with tales “written” in her head. Today Janalyn is a storyteller who writes in several genres. The same elements–romance, mystery, adventure, history, and whimsy–appear in all her books.

Learn more about Janalyn Voigt at her website.

Based on actual historical events during a time of unrest in America, the Montana Gold western historical romance series explores faith, love, and courage in the wild west. Step back in time to a simpler day. Fall in love with the West.